Friday, August 8, 2014

Alaska, Alaska!

Alaska at last!
We made it! After a solid week of driving from Jasper, here we are in Palmer Alaska! An epic and amazing journey, on which more to follow shortly, and arrived just in time to collect Ben from the airport in Anchorage this evening. (He's been travelling for the past 36 hours himself, so probably good that we make it to the airport on time!).

Our arrival was through the tiny Poker Creek border post on the dirt road from the famous gold rush era Dawson City to quirky community of Chicken (so-named because the first white settlers in the 1880s wanted to name it after the abundant local ptarmigans but, after establishing that none of them had any idea how to spell "Ptarmigan", settled on Chicken instead as a workable compromise).
Probably the tiniest, certainly the friendlies, border post into the USA anywhere!
The Chicken jokes just keep on comin'
 After a night in Chicken, where we had our first, modestly successful, attempt at gold panning, we came on down to Palmer, and here we are, having managed to score ourselves a bed and an unbelievable view with our friends Cathy and Mark. What a luck!

View from our bedroom this morning. Note runway with Supercub in foreground!

Monday, August 4, 2014

Bear-y Exciting!

Having had several glimpses of black bears during our drive through BC over the past month, they have nonetheless all been from the car and, though wonderful, rather frustrating. At Fish Creek, near Stewart, in a small pocket of Alaska called Hyder (a proudly self-proclaimed ghost-town), we got to experience our first 'real' sighting of a single black bear, who had come down to the creek to find a meal in the spawning trout. Watch the video of this gorgeous fella…






Canada Parks - we love you!

We are no strangers to National Parks; as a family, we could probably say that a hefty percentage of our holidays have been spent in varying conditions of Parks’ comfort across Africa and a few others elsewhere. Camping through Canada’s western province of British Columbia has, however, raised the bar in our minds. Not, as one might assume, in terms of comfort or convenience, but in a much more purist sense of what outdoor living is – and should be – all about: sustainability.

This is what we have appreciated from our three-week camping in BC National Parks so far:
·      *Clean sites. There are plenty of trash bins clearly marked at frequent intervals, catering for regular trash, as well as for all recyclable items

·     * Energy efficient. Parks Canada is very green-conscious! Most bathroom and other water taps are fixed with an internal spring, thus reducing water wastage; many washrooms are run on solar lighting
·    *  Passionate about nature. Reminders about respecting the environment and its natural inhabitants, big and small, are everywhere


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  *Informative. At every campsite, there is a noticeboard giving local information about the area, weather, a map, bear warnings, historical info, and reminders about appropriate camping behavior (which is encouraged during the “Quiet Hours” between 11pm – 7am)


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 *      *Resources. No matter how rural the campsite is, there will always be a designated tent pad, and more often than not, a picnic table and campfire grill. At larger camps, there is often a communal picnic site (for day-trippers), a social hut (more for the winter months) and even an interactive centre, where informative/educational movies are shown, or talks given

·      *Clean water. Taps provided for fill-ups everywhere!
·      *Efficient infrastructure. Parks Canada provide a wide network of Information Centres, which are run by incredibly friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff, who hand out detailed info and maps about all the available activities (easy to hard level hikes, backcountry camping, interactive boardwalks, historical tours, etc)

·      *Uniform system. Procedures are reliable and predictable wherever you go, however remote. A standardized pamphlet is given at every National Park, that gives a general map of the area, as well as a more focused map of the general hiking routes.

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Mokoomba In Canada (by Max)


This is Max. He is 12 years old and is Canada on holiday. He is packing up to go and see a band all the way from Zimbabwe, where he is from. His mum (Amanda) brought a Zim flag to represent Zimbabwe, and Max is wearing it as a cloak. They set off to the town hall, where Mokoomba are playing. They have decided to walk. Around half way they here a car horn beeping. They turned around to see a silver sports car with a hand sticking out waving. They guessed it was a Zimbabwean who saw the flag on Max’s back. When they arrived at the town hall, they met the same woman who had waved at them. They settled down on the front row. A woman, right next to Max, started dancing the second the music started. Slowly more and more people started dance, including Max’s parents. Max doesn't like to dance
… so he didn’t. Mokoomba sang about 14 songs, with a 10 minute break. Max and his family walked back and fell asleep as soon as there heads hit there pillows (blankets folded).

Sleeping (NOT) Through a Stormy Night...

The Canadian Met Office predicted a break in the weather on Thursday, with unseasonably cold and wet weather forecast. That was OK with us. We’d be in the car for much of the morning, driving to our next destination in the Rockies. Chances were, when we got there, we might even avoid a soggy tent altogether and sleep in a cabin.

Today was Wednesday, so we still reckoned on the weather keeping its pact and waiting until tomorrow to turn wet and cold. Oh, how silly of us! On the humorous side, it was reassuring to know that it’s not just the Zimbabwean Met Office that gets its weather predictions wrong.

We had struggled to find an official campsite that wasn’t already full, so we happily settled for the challenge of finding a wild place in the bush. It was after 6pm when we finally drove into a delightful wooded spot that could accommodate the car and our tent away from the main road. However, even as we set down the tarp, the grey skies loomed fast and ominously. Anxious to get the tent up “in case it started raining”, Gus and Max completed the job in record time. But before the task was even completed, the encroaching rumbling overhead confirmed our dread. It was no longer a case of “in case”, but the certainty of some Big Rain. Any moment.
As we wrestled with erecting the second tarp as a shelter from the rain, the rain began and the wind picked up. It came in furious bursts of hostile energy, trying by all means to terminate our efforts of self-preservation. At one point, it almost succeeded, as it whipped our entire tent clean out of its pegs and upended it. A second’s worth of gratitude registered amidst the chaos, that we had been lent such sturdy, all-weather camping equipment!
In time, with determination and good humour, we eventually had our mini-camp rain-proofed and secured. A supper of minimal effort and resources was prepared and gratefully scoffed, before retreating into the comfort of our dry tent. The storm had by now abated, having bared its angry elements through several rounds of heavy rain, thunder and lightening in the course of the evening. It felt good ‘knowing’ we’d got through a pretty tricky three hours of stormy weather. For now, the softer rainfall was a comforting lullaby to which to fall asleep…
1am. I am startled unceremoniously awake by what sounded like a bomb explosion. Heart poundings accelerate my foggy mind into consciousness, as I realize The Storm has returned to avenge our earlier smugness! Rain batters our tent in a frenzy; lightening blinds my eyes as only direct sunlight might; the thunder right above us sounds as though the sky were being ripped open by dynamite. It is a terrifying, yet strangely exhilarating sensation. So long as the trusted tent holds out…

There is way too much noise and light to be able to sleep. The ear plugs and airline eye patch offer pathetic relief. I toss and turn trying to find a good position. If I could simply lie and listen to the supernatural elements without, and enjoy them for the extraordinary powers that they are, that would be OK; that would make the middle-of-the-night-wakefulness bearable. But alas, no. For the conscious mind has now stirred and betrays me by taunting me with a string terrible ‘What Ifs’: what if the tent gets struck by lightening? What if the rain starts pouring through into the tent? Worst of all, what if there’s a flash flood and we get swept away? At that point, my memory drags up the details of a past Tsunami movie. I inwardly groan and toss some more, in the hope that physical movement will calm the mental activity.

2am. I have not slept. Nor even dozed. So I am already awake for the second battle in the unrelenting skies above an hour later. Max is awakened by the battery assault this time and we exchange hoarse whispers. Gus has earphones in, so is mercifully unaware.



3am. A third almighty battering explodes. Events happen in Threes, right? I beg for this to be the last blast. By now, I am so tired, I manage to doze off. The night ticks slowly and noisily by, the rain never ceasing, though the storm finally takes its fury elsewhere. Seems the three theory was right. ZZZzzzzz.

Racing Through the Rockies

Unbelievably beautiful, this part of the world. We've camped overnight in Glacier (the Canadian one, where we woke up from a cloudy evening camp to a stunning snowy mountain vista), Yoho (on the shores of Lake Yoho, where we were bold enough to dip our toes in the glacial waters, but no further), and now we're in Banff. And along the way we've had a wedding anniversary (23 years on the 27th July, can you believe!), a visit to the fabulous Grizzy Bear Ranch (http://grizzlybearranch.ca) in the Selkirk Mountains, a spectacular day out to see the old paddle steamer that used to tramp the lakes in these parts, and a couple of healthy storms to keep us on our toes. Today is Mands' birthday in Banff, with a properly hot and sunny day to celebrate. Off to the hot springs shortly for some birthday TLC., and then tomorrow we turn northwards, and we don't deviate until we've pretty much hit the Arctic Ocean!

Mands and Max in Banff

Grizzly Bear Ranch

Dipping our toes in the icy Yoho Lake


A useful reminder…...

Flying the flag high!



Trying again, this time in Lake Minniewanka (no, really, that's its name!)