Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Mokoomba In Canada (by Max)


This is Max. He is 12 years old and is Canada on holiday. He is packing up to go and see a band all the way from Zimbabwe, where he is from. His mum (Amanda) brought a Zim flag to represent Zimbabwe, and Max is wearing it as a cloak. They set off to the town hall, where Mokoomba are playing. They have decided to walk. Around half way they here a car horn beeping. They turned around to see a silver sports car with a hand sticking out waving. They guessed it was a Zimbabwean who saw the flag on Max’s back. When they arrived at the town hall, they met the same woman who had waved at them. They settled down on the front row. A woman, right next to Max, started dancing the second the music started. Slowly more and more people started dance, including Max’s parents. Max doesn't like to dance
… so he didn’t. Mokoomba sang about 14 songs, with a 10 minute break. Max and his family walked back and fell asleep as soon as there heads hit there pillows (blankets folded).

Sleeping (NOT) Through a Stormy Night...

The Canadian Met Office predicted a break in the weather on Thursday, with unseasonably cold and wet weather forecast. That was OK with us. We’d be in the car for much of the morning, driving to our next destination in the Rockies. Chances were, when we got there, we might even avoid a soggy tent altogether and sleep in a cabin.

Today was Wednesday, so we still reckoned on the weather keeping its pact and waiting until tomorrow to turn wet and cold. Oh, how silly of us! On the humorous side, it was reassuring to know that it’s not just the Zimbabwean Met Office that gets its weather predictions wrong.

We had struggled to find an official campsite that wasn’t already full, so we happily settled for the challenge of finding a wild place in the bush. It was after 6pm when we finally drove into a delightful wooded spot that could accommodate the car and our tent away from the main road. However, even as we set down the tarp, the grey skies loomed fast and ominously. Anxious to get the tent up “in case it started raining”, Gus and Max completed the job in record time. But before the task was even completed, the encroaching rumbling overhead confirmed our dread. It was no longer a case of “in case”, but the certainty of some Big Rain. Any moment.
As we wrestled with erecting the second tarp as a shelter from the rain, the rain began and the wind picked up. It came in furious bursts of hostile energy, trying by all means to terminate our efforts of self-preservation. At one point, it almost succeeded, as it whipped our entire tent clean out of its pegs and upended it. A second’s worth of gratitude registered amidst the chaos, that we had been lent such sturdy, all-weather camping equipment!
In time, with determination and good humour, we eventually had our mini-camp rain-proofed and secured. A supper of minimal effort and resources was prepared and gratefully scoffed, before retreating into the comfort of our dry tent. The storm had by now abated, having bared its angry elements through several rounds of heavy rain, thunder and lightening in the course of the evening. It felt good ‘knowing’ we’d got through a pretty tricky three hours of stormy weather. For now, the softer rainfall was a comforting lullaby to which to fall asleep…
1am. I am startled unceremoniously awake by what sounded like a bomb explosion. Heart poundings accelerate my foggy mind into consciousness, as I realize The Storm has returned to avenge our earlier smugness! Rain batters our tent in a frenzy; lightening blinds my eyes as only direct sunlight might; the thunder right above us sounds as though the sky were being ripped open by dynamite. It is a terrifying, yet strangely exhilarating sensation. So long as the trusted tent holds out…

There is way too much noise and light to be able to sleep. The ear plugs and airline eye patch offer pathetic relief. I toss and turn trying to find a good position. If I could simply lie and listen to the supernatural elements without, and enjoy them for the extraordinary powers that they are, that would be OK; that would make the middle-of-the-night-wakefulness bearable. But alas, no. For the conscious mind has now stirred and betrays me by taunting me with a string terrible ‘What Ifs’: what if the tent gets struck by lightening? What if the rain starts pouring through into the tent? Worst of all, what if there’s a flash flood and we get swept away? At that point, my memory drags up the details of a past Tsunami movie. I inwardly groan and toss some more, in the hope that physical movement will calm the mental activity.

2am. I have not slept. Nor even dozed. So I am already awake for the second battle in the unrelenting skies above an hour later. Max is awakened by the battery assault this time and we exchange hoarse whispers. Gus has earphones in, so is mercifully unaware.



3am. A third almighty battering explodes. Events happen in Threes, right? I beg for this to be the last blast. By now, I am so tired, I manage to doze off. The night ticks slowly and noisily by, the rain never ceasing, though the storm finally takes its fury elsewhere. Seems the three theory was right. ZZZzzzzz.

Racing Through the Rockies

Unbelievably beautiful, this part of the world. We've camped overnight in Glacier (the Canadian one, where we woke up from a cloudy evening camp to a stunning snowy mountain vista), Yoho (on the shores of Lake Yoho, where we were bold enough to dip our toes in the glacial waters, but no further), and now we're in Banff. And along the way we've had a wedding anniversary (23 years on the 27th July, can you believe!), a visit to the fabulous Grizzy Bear Ranch (http://grizzlybearranch.ca) in the Selkirk Mountains, a spectacular day out to see the old paddle steamer that used to tramp the lakes in these parts, and a couple of healthy storms to keep us on our toes. Today is Mands' birthday in Banff, with a properly hot and sunny day to celebrate. Off to the hot springs shortly for some birthday TLC., and then tomorrow we turn northwards, and we don't deviate until we've pretty much hit the Arctic Ocean!

Mands and Max in Banff

Grizzly Bear Ranch

Dipping our toes in the icy Yoho Lake


A useful reminder…...

Flying the flag high!



Trying again, this time in Lake Minniewanka (no, really, that's its name!)


Thursday, July 24, 2014

First Taste of the Rockies

Had our first night away from the car the other night. Booked ourselves into one of the "backcountry" campsites in Glacier national park (the Canadian one, not the American one). Hauled our packs up the steep climb from Rogers pass in a steady drizzle (the girl that booked us in cheerfully assured us we'd have the place to ourselves, in view of the weather forecast……) and wondered what exactly we were thinking.

Cooking supper in a tent in the rain on top of a mountain
Went to bed early (we were tired and sore and it was cold). Then we work up next morning, and this is what we saw.

What we saw when we woke up
 Kinda puts it all in perspective.

And here's how Mands celebrated…..

High Altitude Yoga


The White Powdery Stuff

Take a 12 year old boy, born and raised in tropical Africa, take him to a mountain in the Canadian Rockies in summer, and what will be the inevitable outcome? A ball of soggy, dirty, 9 month-old, just about to melt forever, snow. Down the back of your shirt if you're lucky. Down the front of your trousers if you're less lucky. Or, in my case, both.
An unsuspecting father gets his first snowball on the back
Turns out, as said 12 year old found out to his cost, Dads also know how to throw snowballs.

Dad gets the last laugh
Oh well, just have to make a snow angel instead…..


Monday, July 21, 2014

Viva La "Crown"!

Never thought I'd say this, but long live the Crown in Canada. By complete accident we stumbled across something so extraordinarily wonderful that it will transform our time in British Columbia, and all, apparently, because of the "Crown". Arriving late evening in the little town of Revelstoke, on the edge of the Columbia mountains, we were horrified to discover that every single campsite in town was full, and mostly full of horrendous RVs parked side by side in the manner of our neighbours from across the Limpopo. And so, in the best Zimbo fashion, we drove out of town in search of a spot to pitch our tents in the bush. Herself was rather sceptical of my enthusiastic efforts to drive down every little side road, and when, on the first track we followed, we saw a large NOTICE pinned to a tree, she was ready to give me the full force of her not inconsiderable I-told-you-so glares. Imagine our surprise and delight to find, on closer inspection, that the notice read:

"Crown Land. Camping is free, but please do not abuse by staying more than 14 days in any one site".

Now that's what I call civilised!


Our first free campsite on Crown Land - there will be many more!

Friday, July 18, 2014

Pacific Rim National Park, Vancouver Island



Mands, Gus, Andrew, Valerie
Last weekend, we met up with old friends from HIS: Valerie and Andrew, and their three terrific kids Zoe, Victor and Simon. Being the ultra organized person that she is (and thankfully so), Val had booked our forest campsite back in February, securing the very last two available sites – that’s a good indication of how popular this place is! And deservedly so: set in thick forest park, yet right on the beach, Pacific Rim Park was the perfect camping place to rekindle Zim memories, as we walked long beach walks, fought surfboards in the thrashing waves, roasted chipolatas over a beach fire and shared some good beer and Canadian bourbon around simple wood-smoked suppers.

Max, Simon, Victor,  Zoe

Surfin' those waves

Grilling sausages on the beach

Sleepless in Seattle

Monday 7th July we took sad leave of Al and Cindy in Minneapolis and boarded the flight to Seattle. Here the adventure really begins. Arriving with only the packs on our backs we'd given ourselves 48 hours in which to find and buy a car, equip ourselves with all the camping gear we'd need, buy food, do some sightseeing, catch up with friends Terry Cumpston and Brooke Mobley, and then head out. Somehow we managed all of that!

Our first priority was the car. We'd considered hiring instead of buying, as long term rentals can actually be quite cheap in the US. But the look of horror on the face of the car hire rep when we told him we wanted to drive the car to Alaska suggested that we may have perhaps misjudged our audience on this one. He assured us earnestly and repeatedly that no Seattle car hire company would ever dream of allowing any of their vehicles to be driven on the infamous Alaska Highway. So, on to Plan B. After visits to several second hand car dealers, we found ourselves the proud new owners of a Jeep Cherokee by mid-afternoon on our first day in Seattle, and thus we moved on to our next priority. Camping gear.

Max in full wading gear at David's house
Here we lucked out with the extraordinary generosity of our friend David Bruck, who lives on the east side of Seattle overlooking Lake Washington. In addition to running his own innovative baobab company (Baobab Foods), David is a former rugby player and keen fisherman. And owns lots of camping equipment which he no longer uses. Very, very useful! One trip to David's stunning hilltop house later and we came away with just about everything we needed, including crab net (for those Dungeness Crabs), salmon and trout rods and even full river wading gear.  Bring it on, Alaska!

Picnic lunch with Brooke and the Cumpstons
Next priority was catching up with Terry and Brooke. I still had car admin stuff to do, but Mands and Max joined up with them and spent a happy afternoon at the EMP museum (an entire museum dedicated to classic rock music - heaven!), and then I met up with them later. Fantastic to catch up with them again, our third shared continent with the Cumpstons. Concluded the evening with a fabulous dinner with David and his wife Jane, overlooking a busy lake (with kayakers, yachts, surf-paddlers and floatplanes all sharing the same busy space) and enjoying our first taste of the legendary NW Pacific sockeye salmon.

And so, two days and three nights after arriving in Seattle with almost nothing, we left with a car, a load of camping gear and a coolbox full of fine micro-brewed beer. On the road at last!

On the ferry heading towards Canada

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

The Chariot

In the ferry queue en route to Vancouver
So here we are in Vancouver in our new motor. She's a 2000 model Jeep Cherokee with 250,000 kms on the clock (making her the youngest and least travelled vehicle in the Le B stable!) and she's gonna take us all the way to Alaska and, we hope, back again! She has a very modest-sized 4.7 litre V8 engine, which sips fuel in the gentlest and most ladylike of manners and was (I kid you not) the smallest engine we could find at any of the half dozen used car lots we visited in Seattle last week. She doesn't have a name yet, but that will come. Today we have a day's sightseeing in town, and then tomorrow we head north…….


Max and our latest acquisition, complete with newly-affixed Zim flag

Monday, July 7, 2014

Taste of Things To Come!


Our first post from the USA. One week in and, oh my goodness, what a week! We've had hot sun, torrential rain, thunder, lightning, hail and wind. We've sipped bloody mary on a sunny boat cruise, ridden bikes along the banks of the Mississippi, sheltered under dripping fir trees as the rain funnelled down inside our clothes, canoed through a hail storm and had our first encounter with the dreaded "mosquitoes of the north". And we've loved every minute of it!
Cindy's famous Bloody Mary On A Boat

Our warm-up for the road ahead has been a trip with our friends Al and Cindy up into the Boundary Waters of Minnesota - a fabulous (and, to the rest of the world, largely unknown) wilderness area of lakes and forests stretching  all the way up to the Hudson Bay. You get into your canoe and paddle from lake to idyllic lake, pausing briefly to "portage" your canoe and kit between lakes, find yourself a campsite, settle in. And then you fish. Bass, trout, perch and, if you're lucky (we weren't!), the local specialty walleye. No crocodiles, no hippos and no hyenas (although it turns out the bears of North America can be at least as troublesome as hyenas - we had to suspend our food at night from a tree to keep it safe). Paradise! We did get fairly severely rained on but, hey, that all adds to the experience.  In order to truly appreciate the sun, you have to first experience the rain!
Canoeing in the rain - welcome to the northern hemisphere!
Lifting our food away from the bears
It's been a fantastic introduction to the North American continent, although the learning curve is steep. A chastening reminder that you can't afford to have shabby, un-weatherproof kit in this part of the world, and a note to self to revise my long forgotten lighting-fires-from-wet-firewood skills. Tonight we fly to Seattle, where we'll pick up our vehicle, go shopping for some properly rainproof clothing (from the second-hand clothing store, naturally!) and then point ourselves north towards the wilds of British Columbia.


Max meets a smore

Our first catch in North American waters

Portaging our canoes from lake to lake