Thursday, November 27, 2014

Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego (delayed posting)

What an unforgettable experience Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego have treated us to! We have driven down through 2,500km of mostly flat, non-descript land, that has often been written about in less than favourable terms over the last three hundred years. And it has to be said, we agree with much of those descriptions. BUT unlike most, its featureless monotony has not disheartened us; it has amazed us! And has served to highlight a deep sense of privilege to be here at all. And even better, in our ‘own’ vehicle, so we are free to explore whatever and wherever we want. 
Lots of Nothingness on the East Patagonian highway, Ruta 3
Nothingness sometimes broken with the presence of a lot of sheep, a legacy from the Welsh settlers of the 1870’s
Nothingness sometimes decorated with scrubland    
It would be unfair to suspend Patagonia’s description on such a dull, uninteresting note, for although 90% of it is bland, there are the inevitable treasures on the coast that lifted our spirits and dropped our jaws in awe. Such as the unexpected sandy desert…
Reminiscent fun from the Sahara, minus friends Robert, Nicky, Big Max & Xander
Huge sandy cliffs, precariously unstable
The South Atlantic Ocean does not immediately conjure images of much less than cold swells of hostile waters, but the up-close, coastal experience is so very different. We spent a day exploring the Valdes peninsula and being treated to the exciting appearance of a 7-orca pod. Known on this exact beach for their sudden beaching, in order to snatch unsuspecting seals, the orcas swam perilously close to the shoreline. Unfortunately (or fortunately), it is not calving season, so the orcas were not interested in coming ashore. It nonetheless felt like an incredible privilege to see so many so close…
In some parts down the loooooong road of Patagonia, there are animals. Most common, is the guanaco, a smaller cousin to the llama, covered in gorgeously warm and fluffy fur. We’ve also spotted the odd desert fox, pangolin, hare and nandu, an emu-like bird.
         Not every animal we saw was alive, such as this skeletal evidence of a whale
Then suddenly, after days of Flat, we not only reached the end of mainland continental South America, but we also spied mountains in the distance on the far shores of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. Big, snowy, majestic mountains! Our hearts raced with the novelty and promise of exciting snowy adventures to come!


Not only  were there now mountains in Tierra del Fuego, but cars too! And communities. How weird?!
In order to reach La Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, we took a ferry on which to cross the famed Magellan Strait
Our goal was to visit Ushuaia, the southernmost Argentinian town and the second southernmost town on Earth – the furthest town being Puerto Williams, which is across the bay and belongs to Chile. Sadly, we couldn’t make it there, but Ushuaia made up for it with all the amazing treats it had to offer…
A great moment of truth and appreciation for Max!
We took a boat trip into the Beagle Channel, on which sits Ushuaia’s port, where we saw the regular South Atlantic residents and landmark (southernmost, of course) lighthouse
This is the lighthouse that was written about in Jules Verne’s classic The Lighthouse at the End of the World
And finally, what the boys had been waiting so impatiently for, was a Day in SNOW! We hiked one of the mountains that surrounds the back of Ushuaia, heading steadily upward through beautiful mature forest, until, at the end of the tree line, we hit real snow. Deep snow. A frozen lake. And best of all, slopes covered with the magical white stuff. The reason for making such a big deal of snow, you must understand, is because our African-raised kids have barely seen snow before, least of all played in it to the extent we did in Ushuaia. It was a day of manifesting their dreams!


Indeed, reaching Ushuaia in itself was a manifestation of all our dreams!

Sunday, November 23, 2014

Rapid Update

Oh my goodness, it's been soooo long since we last posted! Not, I can assure you, because we've been sitting on our backsides doing nothing. More that we haven't been near internet long enough to post.

We're still in Argentina. The distances in this country are just mind-boggling. Imagine if southern Africa from Cape Town to Nairobi was all a single country. That's about the scale of it. So far we've covered 10,000 kms since arriving in the north-east of Argentina, and we're only a third of the way back up it. We could easily spend 6 months travelling just in this country alone. (In fact, now I come to think of it, that seems like a REALLY good idea!).

And what a magnificent country it is. Just staggeringly beautiful. The people are all a bit crazy, which we like, and the political worldview of Argentinians is comfortingly similar to those of many Zimbabweans. And the landscape. Wow. It just never ends. And we ran out of superlatives long ago!

So here's what we've been up to.

From Buenos Aires we headed down into Patagonia, where our first stop was the Peninsula Valdes, world-famous marine wildlife reserve. We were astoundingly lucky to get there at just the time the orcas came out to hunt seals on the shore, although it did coincide with a ferocious hail storm (a useful preparation for the varied meteorological conditions lying in wait for us as we ventured further south).

Orcas on the hunt for elephant seal cubs
From the Valdes Peninsula we moved rapidly down through the bleak Patagonian steppe, pausing only briefly to consider the oddity of a large-scale Welsh migration into the area in the mid 19th century (about the same time my ancestors came to Argentina too, so maybe not that odd).

The 3,000 km peg on the Ruta 3. We were impressed, until we realised our return journey up the Ruta 40 would see us reaching a 5,000 km peg!
And then, a ferry ride across to the Isla Grande of Tierra del Fuego, a brief sojourn into Chile (you can't get there any other way), and we were in Ushuaia, the bottom of the world. And very definitely one of our quirkiest and most favourite cities anywhere.

An indication of the distances ahead - La Quiaca is still in Argentina!

The famous lighthouse in the middle of the Beagle Channel
 We took advantage of being this close to the Antarctic (Ushuaia is closer to the Antarctic than it is to the Peninsula Valdes!) to climb up to the snowline and frolic. Had a fantastic day skidding down snow-covered mountainsides and were all completely black and blue by the end of it.

Snow, at last!

Watch out for runaway trains! 
Stamping to keep warm....
From Ushuaia, where the weather had been remarkably kind to us, we headed over into Chile to see the famous Torres del Paine. Here, the weather was less kind (although the scenery was absolutely breathtakingly spectacular). After an epic night in which Mands and I literally held our tent down in 80kmh winds, we retreated from the mountains back to base camp to effect repairs. Sadly, with the wind showing no signs of dying down, we eventually had to move on.

The battered remnants of our tent after a night of 80kmh winds.

Wet and cold in the Torres del Paine

The $10 rain suit we bought for Max in Puerto Natales. Mountain fashion at its finest!

But oh, the views....

Trying to stand straight in an 80kmh wind

We survived!
Next stop was El Calfate back in Argentina, and home to the humungous Perito Moreno glacier (Argentina's second biggest tourist attraction after the Iguassu Falls). We were somewhat dreading it, knowing what a touristy place it was, but were pleasantly surprised. Watching from less than a hundred metres away as huge chunks of ice calve off the glacier into Lago Argentina is a remarkable spectacle, and the chance to go even closer in a boat made it even more worthwhile.

Obligatory family portrait in front of glacier

Photographing the glacier from the boat - note the windswept look of the photographer!
And thence to the even more appealing village of El Chalten, base for treks into the range around Mt Fitzroy, which is almost as spectacular as Torres del Paine and considerably easier to get to. The wind continued to do its thing, though, and our attempts to climb up to one of the viewpoints at the foot of the mountain (Lago de Los Tres) was thwarted by a ferocious windstorm that literally knocked us off our feet (and blew the sunglasses right off my face and down the side of the mountain).

Heading up into the Fitzroy range
View from our stunning campsite at Laguna Capri up to Fitzroy

Chance encounter with a llama train, supporting a group of climbers

Cloud formation above the mountain, reflecting the terrifyingly strong winds rushing through it....
We loved it, though. We camped out at a stunning lake (Laguna Capri) and were able to watch a magnificent sunrise that gradually bathed the mountain in pink, just in time to rescue our extremities from frostbite.

Coming down wasn't too much of a hardship, either, as it gave us the perfect excuse to find another snowfield,


In search of another snowfield
where we built our first ever snowman...

Our first ever snowman
 And then knocked him down.

The only thing more satisfying than building a snowman is his subsequent systematic disassembly! 

All finished off with a cup of Max's patented "Genuine Tang Snowcone".

Max, proving that some yellow snow actually tastes really good!
We're now converging on Barriloche, ski capital of Argentina, and are aiming resolutely northwards towards the Atacama desert for some frolics in the sand.

Realised with a shock that we'll be home in 4 weeks time (arriving on Fri 19th December), so not much time left!


Friday, November 14, 2014

The Flip Side…

So many of our friends envy us for doing this Americas trip; they say how happy we look in all the pictures…but, of course! The smiles in the photos do reflect genuine joy, for there is no doubting the benefits, growth and positive learning that travelling as a family for six months provide. Every single day, we express gratitude, we interact with our teenage sons in a way that would never otherwise happen, we have time for each other. Life is, in so many ways, absolutely amazing!
BUT, there are challenges, too! And in all fairness , I think we owe it to you dear Readers (sorry, couldn’t resist that !) to share an honest insight into the more contrary elements of Life on the Road…

Obvious complaints aside – such as wearing the same clothes for days on end and not being able to find showers (let alone hot showers) – there are three particular challenges that travelling through this austral continent have nagged me: Communication, Driving and Money (fairly universal, hey?!)

Communication is a huge issue for me. One of the greatest joys in travelling far and wide involves interaction with the interesting people one meets, whether they be native dwellers of the host land, or fellow travellers from anywhere else in the world. In South America, English is not widely known, let alone used, so having even a basic knowledge of Portuguese and/or Spanish helps a lot. I know neither beyond Greetings and a couple of basic phrases. These don’t get me very far, let me tell you! I have been trying to learn Spanish on the long drives, thanks to a trusty podcast, but the moment an Argentinian opens his or her mouth, I find I cannot recall and match a single word that has been taught in my slow, well-enunciated Spanish-for-Dummies podcast. The spoken lingua in these parts is way too rapido, so most of the time I pathetically flop back on my “Perdonne, no hablo espanol” cushion. I am finding these failures very frustrating! There is actually a bitter-sweet remedy to this problem, though, which has emerged in the form of mi marido Gus. His Spanish is very workable, but we (the boys and I) are far too dependent on him in every public communication. That’s the bitter-frustrating-disempowering part. Ultimately, however, it is undeniably ‘sweet’ having someone in the family who can fix us a bed for the night, or ask the directions to the nearest panaderia (bakery)…

Driving: problem #2. Of the 4,000km we’ve covered in Argentina alone, Gus has driven 3,800 of them! I should feel ashamed, except for the factors that outweigh the shame. Namely, the difficulties for me driving a left-hand-wheel vehicle with a dodgy clutch (sorry Robin) and, worst of all, my inability to stay awake at the wheel for longer than a 2-hour stretch. I know! Pathetic! However, I am somewhat appeased (aka not made to feel too guilty) by Gus’ passion for driving, especially on muddy/sandy/stony tracks, and his extraordinary ability to drive for HOURS on end quite effortlessly. Yes, I do feel bad, and Yes, it is (once again) frustrating and disempowering not being able to balance out our travel duties fairly. But it may well be the price I have to pay to ensure my family reaches the end in safety?!
Thirdly: Money. Ouch, always a tetchy subject. But in our case on this trip, not really an issue: we simply don’t have any to spare. Travelling on a shoestring budget means we literally use our cash for food, accommodation, fuel and museums. Oh, and beer for Gus and maybe some red wine for Mands. Ben and Max have stoically refused to give up asking for helado (ice-cream) at every town we stop at, but they are sadly rarely rewarded for their begging. In many ways, it’s so simple, so easy, travelling this way. After all, it eliminates any temptation to try to buy anything in the museum gift shops or at the craft markets. Most of the time. Sometimes I waver. Sometimes, when my guard is down, I wish we could afford to buy one special keepsake, or treat the boys to a fancy seafood lunch. And that frustrates me, too.
But once I have regained a sense of rationale and reminded myself of where we are as a family and what we are doing and giving ourselves, the nick nacks lose their significance. Ultimately, my heart recognizes a deep sense of gratitude of something far bigger than what can be purchased; that which has no monetary price attached, that which is priceless.

It’s funny, but as I end this piece, I realize that it is ending on a different note than what I set out to write. I guess what I’m really saying after all, is that in spite of the inevitable frustrations and negatives, they’re all for the good and none of them are insurmountable. Hooray!

Monday, November 3, 2014

The Pantanal of Argentina

Ok, so here's a top tip for travellers in Latin America.

The Pantanal is one of Brazil's top attractions. We've never been there, though, because it is a notoriously expensive place to get to and we're, shall we say, a little "price-sensitive". Argentina has an unsung equivalent, which is almost as impressive and a fraction of the cost. The only snag is you need a car to get there (which, happily for us, we happen to have).

The Ibera wetlands are huge (1.3 million hectares of swamp) and astonishingly little-known. We discovered them quite by accident, and none of the other travellers we've met in Argentina have even heard of them, let alone visited. A pity, because they really are spectacular.

The drive there, on a long, fabulously muddy road across miles and miles of utterly flat pampas, gives little indication of the spectacle to come.
Mud and flatness...
We reached the beautifully-situated lakeside Pellegrini municipal campsite late in the evening and the first thing we saw, munching the grass on which we were about to pitch our tent, was a capybara. From behind it could easily have been a warthog, resting on its knees to munch the grass. But from head on it looks unmistakably rodent-like (which it is), and resembles nothing more than an oversized guinea pig.  

Never knew guinea pigs could get this big!
Early next morning we all hopped on to a boat, and for a modest $10 each spent a good 2 hours drifting gently through a swampy wonderland (part Okavango, part Bharatpur) with an excellent local guide.  It was paradise.

We saw caymans (jacare´), marsh deer, capybara and huge volumes of birds, and all for the price of a hamburger.

Sadly we didn't have time to stick around, but you can also go for guided walks or (which we would have loved to have done) horse rides. But just our one night and one boat trip made it worthwhile. What a find! Highly, highly recommended.