Iguazu Falls by Max Le Breton

In northern Argentina, run two big rivers called the Iguazu and the Parana. At a significant stage these two rivers combine and powerfully drop off a ledge, which creates the almighty Iguazu Falls. Not only are these falls amazing to walk around, but they can also be experienced by boat, train and even helicopter.

         The forest-covered paths around Iguacu go through humid, stiflingly hot, but beautiful trails, that are butterfly-filled. As recommended you should bring lots of drinking water and prepare for really hot weather and lots and lots and lots of sweating.

It was SO hot and humid, we were exhausted!

        

There are two boat rides; one goes under the falls and the other goes over. The one that goes under cost 200 Pesos but is worth it. First you go close to the falls and get some really good photos. There is an island that was accessible until a devastating flood destroyed everything on it. On this boat trip you circle the island once… but the second time you put your camera away and prepare for an almighty shower.

         The other boat trip is 100 Pesos and in this trip you take a train to the Devils Throat, which was also destroyed in the flood. Then you get on a long rubber paddle boat and start paddling down stream. You will get close to the edge of the falls but from a safe distance so you don’t see the drop or go flying off it.

         Many may think that Iguazu is a World Wonder, sadly its not. After exploring this breath-taking scene, I think it deserves to be its own World Wonder! Thousands of people come for the day to see a sight they will never forget, including me.     

Vic Falls vs Iguaçu

Ok, we admit to Vic Falls bias, and it would be crass to turn natural beauty into a contest. But seriously, these Iguaçu Falls are impressive. For a start you don't just see them from across the other side of the gorge. You can actually walk....

 On top of them......

Next to them.....

Below them ......

If that's not enough, you get on a boat and they'll drive you through them! Now that's an experience I'll never forget.

Sadly many of the walkways are down at the moment, after a recent flood. But, as Ben aptly summarised it looking through the mist of spray and luxuriant tropical rainforest, "that's exactly what you imagine South America would look like....".

Trusty New Steed

We were sad to say goodbye to Kumba, our Jeep Cherokee. OK, she was a tad on the small side. Her 5.7 litre V8 petrol engine drank a little more fuel than she needed to (but resolutely refused to allow her to go at any speed above 100 kmh). Her three dimensional electrically adjustable leather seats with optional extra lumbar support were never quite able to adjust themselves into a position of any comfort for the driver. And her interior climate control system required a degree in electrical engineering to understand, but never actually worked. But she was our home for three months, she got us up to Alaska and back again, and we owe her for that.

But now we have a new steed. Ladies and Gents, may I introduce you to Lola. Lola is a Land Rover Defender, and like all Land Rover Defenders, she has a modestly sized engine (2.5L diesel, in her case), a seat that cannot be adjusted in any dimension, and an infallible climate control system whose sole operating mechanism is a window-winder. Lola (which means "strong woman" in Spanish) showed her mettle the moment I first climbed into her and pushed the clutch the floor. When I lifted my foot off the clutch, she remained glued resolutely to the floor and refused to budge. It was love at first slight!

Fazenda Iracambi by Ben Le Breton

Situated 341 kilometres northwest of Rio de Janeiro, in the large state of Minas Gerais, lies Fazenda Iracambi. Known by everyone all around for its acclaimed research center, Iracambi works in managing natural resources, developing sustainable communities and researching ecosystems in its very own rainforest.

Covering hundreds of hectares, Iracambi is half farmland and half rainforest. The research center is located on the edge of this Atlantic rainforest. The owners of the property, who happen to be my grandparents, live on a hill in a grand house built by them, almost 20 years ago. It is a lovely old house, square shaped with a courtyard in the middle. It is a very environmentally-friendly house; half of the electricity is hydro-electrically powered and the water all comes from a stream uphill.

 

Wherever one is on Iracambi, they will always have a spectacular view. Most of the time the two local mountains, Grominha and Itajaru, will be visible. Yes, the view of the mountains is splendid, but the view from on top of the mountains is one hundred times better! Seeing everywhere within several kilometres’ radius, with grassy hills on one side and a verdant rainforest on the other.

view from the top of the hill overlooking the fazenda

the flower from a banana tree

pineapple-looking plant

Looking at the farm, one would see the hills dotted with various farm creatures; goats, cows, sheep and horses. In sharp contrast to the vivid green, red dusty roads trail along the bottoms of hills, leading to old style mud farm cottages. Looking at the rainforest, one would see trees alive with exotic butterflies and birds, and the damp ground teeming with a frenzied insect activity. A common activity, best done in the dry season, is walking the trail along the Graminha river. Under the canopy of the local trees, the Mbauba, one will eventually end up at the famous swimming spot.

Iracambi is phenomenal; there is no better word to describe it. It is highly recommendable for anyone, young and old, to visit. The hospitality is appreciable, and one thing is for sure; you will always be welcome! 

 

Reunited and Relaunched!

We are once again back on the road, currently, but temporarily in Brazil. 

Gus procured and drove the ‘new’/old Landie a long  and slow 1,600km (at 65kmph) over three days to the coastal town of Curitiba. Meanwhile, Mands, Ben and Max drove from the farm with Sekuru Robin  for two solid days in the other Landie, and met Gus there. We had a very dusty and fatigued, but happy, reunion and (thankfully) swapped Landies!

Then quite unexpectedly (after farewells to Sekuru), we found ourselves taking a boat out to Ilha do Mel (Honey Island) and have landed in this small piece of paradise. It has all happened so quickly, we keep having to pinch ourselves to realize that this is for real!

This small island is almost all rainforest; 98% of it is protected ecologia, leaving the remaining two small stretches of beach to be commercially, but naturally enjoyed. Every building is made of wood, there are no hotels, only charmingly rustic guest houses, known as pousadas. 

The white sand is so fine, it feels like walking in flour. Everyone is friendly, as only small-island folks can be. This has turned out to be such an unexpected bonus – and as Gus keeps telling us – the only time we’re going to be enjoying a South American beach. As from tomorrow, it’s back in the car and On With The Trip!

Sunkissed and ready to move on. Iguazu here we come!

Basking In Brazil

Somewhat unexpectedly - though completely predictably - Ben, Max and Mands have enjoyed a two week sojourn on the grandparents' farm: Fazenda Iracambi. This is what it looks like...

And this is what it looks out onto…

Not a bad place to be stranded, eh? 

'Stranded?' you ask. Indeed we are. Well, sort of. The story unveils thus…

In order to enjoy our South America Half all the more, by means of our own transport, we came up with a brilliant plan that ensured independent wheels in which to reach the Uttermost Parts of the Earth in relative comfort and safety. It was an entirely win-win plan, as all we (rather, Gus) had to do, was 'nip' down to Uruguay, sign a few papers and take possession of his father's new Landie, that has been imported from the UK. Gus would then exchange the new car for his father's older Landie for us to continue our travels in. Naturally, South American bureaucracy is never quite so straight-forward as one would hope it to be, and so Gus - on this solo mini trip - has spent rather longer than anticipated, holed up in Montevideo. But at least he's had plenty of Spanish-speaking practice, ready for the re-launch of the Le Breton's trip through South America! Great job, Gus!

So what better way to keep ourselves occupied on the farm than to hike (just over 1,600m) up the local mountain Itajaru…

…with the aid of Iracambi programme coordinator Gui…

It was a hard climb, but SO worth it!

And go swimming in the rainforest, as well as exploring along the river…

Voting on the "Best Of" North America

On our last night of camping in the States, the four of us reflected upon, remembered and reminded ourselves of all the wonderful places and activities we had been to and done over the past three months. So we thought up the following Twelve Of The Best categories. Predictably, it was way too hard to come up with an Absolute Favourite for most of the categories, hence more than one answer for  most of them! Enjoy our favorite memories…

1.  Best Official Campsite (NP or Forestry):

Mendenhall Glacier campsite, Juneau, Alaska

Cooper's Landing, outside Soldotna, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
Also: Boya Lake, Yukon, Canada (no photo)

 2.  Best Wild/Free Campsite:

Mount Baker forest, Washington

Mojave high desert, California

3.  Best Camp Meal:

Gus' freshly caught sockeye salmon, Russian River, Kenai Peninsula, AK

4.  Best Meal:

Alaskan King Crab (Cathy, we shall never forget it, thank you!!)

5.  Favourite Big City:

Seattle, Washington State 

6.  Place We’d Most Like to Return to: 

Denali National Park, Alaska

7.  Best View:

Crater Lake, Oregon

Yosemite, California

Mount Baker, Washington

Hermit Meadows, Glacier National Park, BC, Canada

8.  Place That Took Us Most by Surprise:

Chicken town, Alaska

Crater Lake, Oregon

9.  Best Hike:

Yosemite NP, California 

Glacier NP, BC, Canada

10.  Best Museum:

SS Moyie, 1896, Kaslo, British Columbia, Canada

Seattle Science Centre

Seattle Museum of Flight

11.  Most Fun Activity:

Taking a flight in Mark Lee's Cessna 182 through a glacial valley, Palmer, Alaska

The boys swimming in the river in Yosemite NP

Going around Dawson City gold rush town on a period tour, Yukon, Canada

12.  What We Missed Out On This Trip, But Would Like to Do Next Time!

Drive the Dalton Highway to the furthest northern First Nation community in Yukon, Canada;
    continue the Alaskan Highway up to Prudoe Bay, into the Arctic Circle;        
go to Fairbanks;
AND...

… drive a self-contained camping van (RV) to combat all the cold and the rain, so we could sleep
dry and warm!!

LE FIN